Rudolf eickemeyer



(Model) 7 B. EIOKEMEYER.

Device for Use with Sewing Machines in Sewing Linings into Hats. 7 i

No. 239,320. PatentedMarch 29,1881."

NJETERS, FHOTO-LITHOGRAFHER, WASHINGTON. D C

UNrrEn STATES PATENT came.

RUDOLF EICKEMEYER, 0F YONKERS,NEWYORK.

. DEVICE FOR USE WITH SEWlNG-MACHINES IN SEWING LININGS INTO HATS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters latent No. 239,320, dated March 29, 1881.

Application filed Ap1i18,1580. (Model) To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, BUDoLF EICKEMEYER, of Yonkers, in the county of Westchester and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Devices for Use with Se\ving-l\Iachines in Sewing Linings into Hats; and I do hereby declare that the fol- March L, 1875, and No. 182,182, September 12,

1876, I have shown and described sewing-machines with which my present improvements may be employed; but with certain obvious changes in form they may be readily adapted for use with other machines somewhat differ-v ently constructed without departing from my invention.

In another application for Letters Patent,

filed April 5, 1879, I have shown and broadly claimed the combination, with a presser-foot, of a lining guide or gage and a guide or gage for a reed and its covering; but the particular device therein shown is limited inits capacities to the presentation to the stitching mechanism of an unturned lining, its reed, and its covering.

My present invention consists, mainly, in the combination, with the presser-foot, of a lininggage extended rearward of the presserfoot, for the reception of a turned lining, and a gage for a reed and its covering. The gage for the reed and its covering may be variably constructed-4. 6., so that both may be separately entered therein, or so that a reed previously inclosed within its covering may be entered as a whole. 1 herein after show both gages integral with a presser-foot; but either or both may be constructed so as to be separable therefrom and capable of attachment thereto without departing from my invention. The angular-faced presser-foot, hereinafter shown, and its lining guide or gage, is described and claimed in my Letters Patent No. 182,182, and shown in Figures 4 and 5 of the drawings, to which reference may be had, if need be, for a more complete understanding of the practical application of my presentimprovements. Certain minor features of invention are hereinafter pointed out and made the subject of claim hereunto annexed. I

To more particularly describe my invention I will refer to the accompanying drawings, in which-- Fig. 1 represents, in side view, a presserfoot, provided with the lining-gage and reedgage in accordance with my invention. Fig. 2' represents the same in top view. Fig. 3 represents the same with a reed-gage arranged for receiving a previously-covered reed. Fig. 4. represents, in section, a portion of a hat, its lining and its reed, as it appears while being stitched. Fig.5 represents the same with the stitched lining turned inward.

The angular-faced presser-foot A is in the form of a rigid loop, has a sleeve, c, and a setscrew, to, for securely attaching it to the lower end of a presser-bar, which is provided with 1 the usual spring and controlling lever, and it in as also an open space between its two angular faces for the reception of a sweat-lining when occupying the lining-gage slot b, all as shown in the drawings, Figs. 4 and 5, of Patent No. 182,182, and as described and claimed therein. In Fig. 5 of said drawings a recess is shown in one edge of the lining gage slot for the reception of the angular surface of a flared doubled sweat-lining, when partially straightened out flatwise and entered in said slot, with its wrong side upward, as placed for delivery to the stitching mechanism. The lining-gage slot b, asherein shown, has no recess of the character referred to, but it may be employed, if desired. The upper face of the presser-foot is cut away, as in said prior presser-foot, to afford the requisite needle-space.

The gage c is for the reed and its covering. As shown in Fig. 1, it is constructed in two separate sections. Section 0 is for the reed, and the other, 0 for the covering thereof. The section 0 consists of a short length of tube of proper size to receive the naked reed, and it is mounted at the end of a plate which is located centrally within the section 0 which is composed of sheet metal bent upon itself, and has an opening below the reed-section for readily initially inserting the reed-covering edgewise. The reed gage is so located with reference to the inner end of the lining-gage that while this latter locates the edge of the turned lining on one side of the stitch-line, the reed-gage locates the reed upon the opposite side of said stitch-line and its covering midway thereon, so that both the lining and the reed-covering will be simultaneously stitched to the hat. Should it be desirable to employ a reed to which the covering has already been applied, the section 0 is not required, the section 0 being all that is then necessary; but its dimensions should, of course, be somewhat reduced, as compared with thesame when constructed as shown. I show at Fig. 3 a reedgage without the central section, 0, as arranged to receive a previously-covered reed.

With my gages, as described, the lining, the reed, and the covering are delivered to the needle, as indicated in Fig. 4c, the dotted line 3/ indicating the path of the needle, the stitchline being located internally closely adjacent to the junction of side crown and brim, and

externally, preferably, sufficiently above the brim to enable the stitches to be well covered by the usual hat-band. When the lining is turned into the hat, the interior stitch-line is wholly concealed and protected from contact with the head of the wearer.

Although I have shown the two gages constructed integrally with the presser-foot, it is obvious that each may be readilyso constructed as to be detachable from the resser-foot, and provided with set-screws.

The linings used with this device having been doubled and flanged, and it being specially important, for attaining a neat finish, that the stitch-line be uniformly located with reference to the creased line of the lining, I!

prefer to employ an adj ustable-gage block, at, which is fitted to slide on the lining-gage and be rigidly fixed thereon at any desired point by means of a clamping-screw. This gageblock is variably set according to the width of lining used, so that both edges of the lining will'be in contact with a guiding-surface. The gage-block is so constructed that it may be readily slipped oh? and upon the lining-gage at its rear end. This sliding gage -block, in

combination with the lining-gage, reed-gage,

1. Thecombination, with a presser-foot adapted to co-operate with stitching mechan ism forlining hats, of a lining-gage extended rearward from the presser-foot, and a gage for a reed and its covering located adjacent to the front end of the lining-gage, substantially as shown and described, whereby a hat-lining wrong side upward and occupying the lininggage, and a reed and its covering occupying the reed-gage, are truly and evenly delivered to stitching mechanism for securing the lining and reed into a hat, as set forth.

2. The combination, with the presser-foot adapted to lining hats, of the lining-gage and the reed-gage, constructed in sections-for the separate reception of a reed and a covering, substantially as described.

3. The combination, with the presser-foot adapted to lining hats, of the lining-gage, the reed-gage, and the sliding gage-block on the lining-gage, substantially as shown and described.

RUDOLF EIGKEMEYER.

Witnesses:

HENRY OSTERHELD, GEORGE N ARR. 

